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Katie Grzesiak

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Everything posted by Katie Grzesiak

  1. It's in a weird grey zone for us. It's technically an EDR species in our region, but it also seems to be growing exclusively in road ROWs and not spreading into higher-quality areas. We're encouraging removal. We were hoping to have a better handle on our actions this year... but it's 2020.
  2. I've had lots of questions about this plant this year for the first time! I don't have any professional experience with it, but personal. My mother planted some as a ground cover in a part-shade spot, and it was aggressive. We worked hard to remove it years later (physical only, dig/pull), and eventually mostly got rid of it, though a sprout or two comes up each year. I haven't seen evidence of it escaping into natural areas--yet. I would expect similar risks regarding compost/dump piles in woods turning into escapees as other, more obviously identified as invasive ground covers. The one thing that may be saving it from being truly invasive is that it seems to be more patchy than truly covering--one of the reasons we ripped it out in the first place. That's only my experience in one location (literally one spot in one yard), so it could be very different overall.
  3. We have some up north, though we haven't worked very hard on it yet. Apparently treatment is similar to garlic mustard: pull before seeds or try glyphosate or triclopyr sprays. Our reports from volunteers are similar to garlic mustard too: thick patches are harder to knock back (and an ebb-and-flow of dense and lighter years), and smaller ones may be "won" in a few years.
  4. The good news is that the seeds are still green and tight in their siliques (those long thin pods)--you can pull! Be sure to bag it and send it to a landfill or tarp a big pile on-site (or other disposal options) so those ripening seeds don't escape. Once the seeds are brown and dry, the siliques will open up when you pull the plants; at that point, it's no longer a good idea to pull the plants because of the risk of spread. Thanks for your sharp eyes and dedication to habitat!
  5. Hmmm, unfortunately, nothing is springing to mind. @DGregori, would you be able to post a photo a little later in the year? Flowers or additional leaves may be of use. Your local MSU Extension office may be able to help too!
  6. I'm sure we're all creating lots of outreach stuff or ideas for how to reach people while we can't hang out with them, and wanted to share some of what ISN's cooking up. Please share yours too! Coloring pages: https://www.habitatmatters.org/education.html--I know others are doing this too! Let's share! Video work (in progress), particularly about decontamination and species ID We're going to have a mini-garlic mustard challenge in our service area, probably? Our spring partner meeting will be held online via Zoom Outreach to swap groups and other local groups on Facebook etc. regarding invasive species (thanks for the idea from Renee Penny of Kalkaska CD/CAKE CISMA) Probably other things I'm forgetting!
  7. ISN is hoping to work more with TOH for exactly this reason--our updated prioritization is still in the works, but (spoilers!), TOH has moved up to a higher priority for us. Funding-depending, we're hoping to work with growers of all kinds (especially in an area like ours with lots of fruit trees). I like the idea of the wineries/breweries too! The biggest challenge we see is actually killing the tree. Literature suggests frill-cuts (instead of cut-stump) is the best treatment, and a lot of the trees we know of in our region are close to structures. Combine that with TOH's already brittle wood, and that could be a yucky situation! We're hoping to partner with and/or train some arborists on treatments.
  8. ISN has used beetles in multiple projects since 2012, and it's gone really well. Obviously, the beetles don't eradicate loosestrife, so follow-up releases are required after 5 or so years, but it's made marked impacts on large populations (not small/medium ones). There is a fair amount of communication that needs to happen with the public--the beetles take a year or two to get established, and it's not eradication! But dang if they don't help keep things to a dull roar in a nice rollercoaster of population sizes. ISN has ordered ours through Wildlife and Wetlands Solutions for a very reasonable price (something like $150 for a pot with over 1,000 beetles), but I'm sure there are other sources as well!
  9. ISN staff are required to have have Core (obviously), Right-of-Way (catchall), Aquatic (Phragmites etc.), and Ornamental (sometimes we treat on private properties in ornamental settings, especially with knotweeds), because that covers about all the work we do. A few staff members also have Forest Pest, mainly because they want to; it may come in handy at some point! We picked these certs because they seem to fit what we do the best, but also because Core & Right-of-Way were handed down to us by predecessors as the ones we should have. If they had a "miscellaneous invasive plants" category instead, that would be great.
  10. We have smatterings of it up here, but haven't dealt with it much. I'd assume it would respond well to cut-stump, similar to its cousin burning-bush.
  11. There are a few variegated phrag stands out there, but this specimen is reed canary grass's horrible alter-ego, ribbon grass https://www.habitatmatters.org/reed-canary-grass.html You can ID reed canary grass regardless of coloration from the looooong, papery, clasping ligules coming up from where the blade meets the stem.
  12. Legit started laughing at this one--I never would've expected Persicaria to be a mis-ID either, but WOW it sure is! Thanks for the heads-up.
  13. We've only seen it in ROWs, but it is sometimes in wet areas, where it could possibly cause harm. I'd be interested if anyone has seen it impacting wetland communities?
  14. Northwest Michigan Invasive Species Network (ISN) has been working on this a bit over the past few years, and it's (very unfortunately) fallen on the back burner. We usually start with sharing the DNR Protocols and tips & tricks. Personal experience has taught me that compressed air and a broom works really well... as long as the equipment/debris is dry. We also try to impress on folks that even a little decontamination is better than nothing, so if all they can carry with is a long-handled broom, great! We feel like getting folks started with decontamination is the right place to be; once they're used to doing something, we can up the ante a bit and go for BETTER practices.
  15. Mints are hard! Check out https://www.michiganflora.net/genus.aspx?id=Mentha for true mints, and https://www.michiganflora.net/family.aspx?id=Lamiaceae for the whole mint family. You can also reach out to your local MSU Extension and/or Master Gardener program for help. If it does end up being something you want to keep, I'd suggest keeping it in a container to help save your other herbs. Avoid putting clippings in the compost, as this can spread the plant in your garden or in natural areas.
  16. No DNA tests that I know of in Michigan, but I was very heartened by a study shared at UMISC last year. Presented by John Gaskin (et al.) of the USDA and focusing on knotweed populations in the Pacific Northwest, the nutshell was that managers are pretty darn good at IDing the difference between Japanese, giant, and Bohemian knotweeds. He had folks send in samples and their guesses, and I don't remember the exact error rate, but it was REALLY low, to the point where he joked, "I guess you guys know your stuff!" Other people named in the study included Mark Schwarzlaender (U Idaho), Fritzi Grevstad (Oregon SU), Marijka Haverhals (U Idaho), Rober Bourchier (Ag & AgriFood Canada), and Timothy Miller (Washington SU). We have mainly Bohemian and giant knotweed (though I expect we'll find that we do have SOME Japanese if we look more closely) here in ISN's area, and we haven't noticed much of a difference in efficacy; they all die well in the first year of treatment (50-90%), then hang on bit by bit for the next few years, like mean jerks. I think this may be very different for the biocontrol study, however.
  17. Some folks were interested in what to plant after removing garlic mustard, so we put this together. If it helps your landowners, please use it! GM replacement.pdf
  18. Hello all, One of our fantastic FAP Foresters (Dr. Josh Shields) did a (very very small) experiment on the efficacy of "over the counter" herbicides on autumn olive cut-stump and basal bark efforts. The results are attached here, but the short version is, some formulations work pretty well! He wants me to note that the sample size is FAR too small to be scientifically significant, but he's chatting with some university friends to see if they'd pick it up into a full-fledged study. He also notes this is probably fine for small homeowner projects where expertise is low, but that if someone was working with NRCS cost-share or the like, the real-deal BMPs would be the best bet. MCD-Shields cut-stump results.pdf
  19. Hi Shelby, ISN's management is mainly working with Road Commissions to mow when it first starts flowering (now/a week ago) to prevent spreading by seed. That said, in a past life with the Park Service I used the herbicide Plateau (imazapic) to great effect; took a year or two (small patch), but left the grasses alone. It's not aquatic-approved. We use Plateau here at the Boardman River Nature Center to keep spurge out of the gardens, but don't do any larger-scale treatments.
  20. Depends on the size. We've often used loppers, as the stems aren't that big and we may be working with volunteers. However, for the work I think you're describing (lots and lots), I'd suggest something like a brush saw (though a chainsaw would work). Cuts down (hah) on the bending/kneeling and speeds everything up a lot!
  21. We prefer to do manual removal or cut-stump over foliar spray. It works great! We use tricolpyr (Garlon). Very close to 100% (if not 100%) mortality. The only thing you have to look out for is the seedlings, particularly ones that come up in subsequent years.
  22. Manual removal is most effective before it flowers. Asparagus knives (something like this) or other weed forks are really great for getting out the taproot. You can use herbicides too, but get excited about surfactant because it takes a fair amount to penetrate the crazy trichomes/prickles.
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